I stayed in Miraflores at the top of Parque Kennedy, a large square lined with art vendors and cafes. This is a bustling, urban upper-class section of the city. The neighborhood also struck me as party central with music, fireworks and voices being heard throughout the night.
With only four days, I wanted to focus on exploring one of Lima’s forty-three districts. After a Pisco Sour-infused ceviche lunch at La Mar, followed by a taxi, a wrong turn, a run-in with old friends and a cocktail party, I found Lima’s artsy enclave, Barranco.
Barranco is a tiny, bohemian district just south of Miraflores and built right up to the rocky cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. Early in the 20th century, Barranco emerged as the fashionable resort for Peruvian high society, and beautiful colonial residences line the avenues.
Walkways down to the ocean glow with milk-glass streetlights. Bars with second story porches overlooking squares set a romantic and laidback mood. Wander down small streets and find rows of colorful houses, graffiti and one vintage VW Bug after another. One might call Barranco quaint.
Heaven may be to stay in the pristine Belle Époque mansion that today is Hotel B. The stunning building, originally built as a seaside retreat, sits on the corner of an old square that leads down to an ocean overlook. The renovated boutique-art hotel is crisp, layered, curated and extremely elegant, yet with a distinct gypsy vibe – walking in you feel like a character in a vintage film.
Hotel B makes Condé Nast Traveler‘s 2014 Hot List.
There’s a chance photography was frowned upon…
Dedalo – just opposite Hotel B – is considered Lima’s premier artisan and home goods retailer. I sat in their garden café with owner Eduardo Lores and his business partner Fernando Perez-Egana; two elegant, open and gracious men. We discussed artisan production, on-line marketing and the power of Pinterest, which is just emerging in Peru! Collaboration is surely in our future.
I returned to Barranco the next day to meet Mari Solari and explore her fabled shop, Las Pallas. At once both a bit standoffish yet chatty and gracious, she started her career as a folk art and handicraft dealer 45 years prior to my visit. Her strict no-shipping policy reflects a well-earned luxury; she doesn’t need the headache!
Here is a glimpse of her private collection displayed throughout her home.
Four days in Lima and I didn’t begin to scratch the surface. My wheels are turning on how to get back, which new neighborhoods to explore, how to travel into the countryside and film and buy from artisans; to get to know new friends better and bring you along with me so we can discover together all that Lima has to offer.
The alpaca is a crucial component of life in the Andes Mountains of South America. The alpaca’s fleece produces a near perfect fiber; silky smooth and soft, durable and water resistant, lofty yet also provides superior warmth. Baby Alpaca is considered super fine and warmer than sheep’s’ wool. It is also hypoallergenic (alpaca do not produce lanolin.) Some Uqllu scarves blend alpaca with silk or bamboo. We recognize traditional designs, and Uqllu is also working with artisans to create fashion-forward scarves that appeal to a larger market.
Additional training, tools, looms, workrooms, decent hours and fair pay are all provided to local artisan weavers. Knowledgeable weavers pass on skills to apprentices. Profits from the sale of Uqllu scarves are distributed to the artisans. Profits and wages enter their local economy, magnifying their impact.
Social responsibility initiatives by multi-national corporations are benefiting artisans and communities all over the world. The stories are not simple, and there is controversy and dissenting opinion, yet we move forward. Change, in our view, is included in the definition of culture. Weaving has been a part of the culture of Peru and the Andes Mountains for thousands of years. So, the industry may look different today, but we should value it all the same.
A Curated World hopes to help Uqllu grow sustainable partnerships in the communities in which they live and work.
With both health and beauty benefits, it’s an experience not to miss when travelling to Morocco as it’s sure to leave you feeling like you’ve uncovered a new skin, and deeply relaxed.
With a variety of options, travelers are sure to find an option depending on their comfort level.
Do as the locals do!
Wind your way through the tiny streets of any medina throughout Morocco, and you’re bound to see women carrying buckets filled with the finest beauty products and the essentials en route to their local hammam beldi (traditional).
With separate areas for men and women, a trip to the local hammam can be a unique experience. Just don’t expect anything fancy here. Children run free while adults socialize. It’s the local hang out. And before entering, you’ll need to stop by the local hanoot (corner store) to pick up your black soap and a kessa (glove) for the body scrub.
Typically comprised of three rooms of varying temperatures, locally employed staff is on hand to apply the black soap and provide a full-body scrub, along with a bit of guidance. The cleanse will take approximately 45 minutes for a complete body scrub, hair wash, and perhaps even a short massage.
Entrance to the local hammams is approximately 10 – 12 Dirhams (about $1.50) and you can expect to pay the staff member around 50 Dirhams for the treatment.
While each community has its local hammam, the hammam located on Rue Riad Zitoun Jdid is one of the nicest and easiest to access in the medina. The hammam is open to men in the morning and women in the afternoon/evening.
Make yourself at home
For the ultimate relaxation treatment, opt to stay in a riad with a private in-house hammam. An afternoon in the souks followed by a late-afternoon hammam treatment will leave you feeling relaxed and ready for an evening in. This option is ideal for couples wanting to experience the hammam treatment together.
Book a stay at Riad Farnatchi not only for a luxurious stay, but a divine hammam treatment.
Step inside the intimate hammam hidden on the main level at Riad Tzarra to experience a hammam typical of a local residence.
Black soap made from olive oil to soften the skin and rhassoul (ghassoul as the locals say), mineral-rich detoxifying clay, is blended with rose water to cleanse and detoxify the skin, followed by a heavenly grommage. Then wrap up in a cozy hammam towel before generously applying argan oil to hydrate the skin. And perhaps a relaxing massage to complete the experience.
In Marrakech, head to Les Bains de Marrakech inside the Kasbah district. Or for a purely luxurious experience, reserve an appointment at La Mamounia, winner of Best Hotel Spa in the World 2011 by Conde Nast Traveller Readers’ Best Spa Awards.
To truly escape the hustle and bustle of Marrakech, plan an afternoon at to the Beldi Country Club. Lunch by the pool, followed by a hammam and massage treatment is quite simply divine.
SHOP our favorite spa products…
I received my first Moroccan pouf from dear friends in 2002. It was butter-soft ivory leather with lime green stitching. It has sat prominently in all my living rooms since. A reminder that age-old design never tires.
These friends had moved to Marrakech. They were both artists and had heads for business. They scoured their way down every alley of the souks searching for the very best sources. They understood that all are not equal. Years later they would launch Zid Zid Kids.
The pouf is generally made by hand-stitching eight pieces of leather together to create a round ottoman-like structure. We recognize the traditional natural brown hides and neutral decorative embroidered tops. That has all changed! Today they come in every bright color you can dream of with contrasting colorful stitches.
All poufs are not equal. You want a thick goat hide that has been expertly tanned to be durable, yet flexible and soft. Most importantly, you want the dye to be fast, to not run or fade. The makers of the best poufs use thick hides and heavy-duty threads on thick needles and have strong arms from expertly embroidering thousands of stitches. Theirs are the poufs that will someday be called vintage!
Classic pouf – this is truly a stunning pouf made from hand-cut, hand-woven leather fabric! A pouf in a class of luxury of it’s own!
Our tough and colorful vinyl versions for kids!
And see Nihal’s exquist square poufs made from hand woven leather fabric – a truly remarkable evolution from the traditional design.”
See the pouf here:
Not sure what Pinterest is? Click here.
One pouf winner will be contacted via private message on Facebook or Twitter 09/10/12 and their board will be shared on our Facebook, Twitter and with our Mailing List.
A 15% off discount code will be mailed to you via private message on Facebook or Twitter on 09/10/12. Discount valid on your next A Curated World Purchase until 01/01/2013.
Winning Pouf is available in Silver, Midnight Blue, Silver, Powder Pink, Fuschia, Purple.
1. CONTEST DESCRIPTION AND PERIOD: The A Curated World ‘Win a Pouf’ Pinterest Contest (the “Contest”) starts 8/20/12 at 12:00 AM Eastern Time (ET) and ends 9/9/12 at 11:59 AM ET (the “Contest Period”). The ‘Win a Pouf’ Contest is a contest where participants pin at least 10 Moroccan Inspired images to their Pinterest page on a board titled “A Curated World – My Moroccan Home”. Participants must first ‘like’ A Curated World on Facebook. Participants will use the hashtags #acuratedworld and #marrakesh in the description of their pins as a way to identify they have pinned items specifically for the contest. In order to be eligible to win this contest, the participants must also pin this image to their board. Kay McGowan will choose 1 winner who will be announced on Pinterest, Twitter and Facebook on 09/10/12. He or She will be contacted via Pinterest, Facebook and/or Twitter and asked for delivery information. We will also share their winning board with our Mailing List. No purchase necessary and no entry fee, payment or proof-of-purchase is necessary to participate.
2. PRIZES: All potential winners will receive 15% off their next A Curated World purchase. They will be contacted via a private message on Facebook or Twitter on 09/10/12 with the discount code. The discount code is valid until 01/01/2013.
3. ELIGIBILITY: Contest is open to legal residents of the 50 United States or district of Columbia.
4. QUESTIONS: For Pinterest help, visit http://pinterest.com/about/help/ OR for questions regarding A Curated World, please contact us.
6. LIMIT ONE (1) ENTRY PER PERSON: Any individual who attempts to enter, or in the sole discretion of Sponsor is suspected of entering more than once or submits entries in excess of the disclosed maximum, by any means, including but not limited to establishing multiple Pinterest accounts, will be disqualified from participation in this Contest.
This promotion is in no way sponsored, endorsed, or administered by, or in association with, Facebook.]]>
This summer’s IT is a flowing tie-dyed pink and yellow cover up brought to us by Aya’s of Marrakech.
I discovered this item while traveling last December. We were underdressed for the cold Marrakech winter nights, bundled up on an Essaouira coastal roof deck, and definitely not thinking of the beach or a hot summer’s night.
Nawal, owner and designer behind the venerable Aya’s clothing boutique in Marrakech, expertly directed our attention to this seemingly simple garment. She schooled us on the many ways to wear her Poncho. Stef of Kif Kif graciously modeled on your behalf. I particularly love the belted look. Notice how the belt snakes under the garment in the back!
The Poncho is 100% cotton and hand dyed with natural pigments by the women of a cooperative south of the city. Remember that no two are alike. We will labor over the selection on your behalf. You may specify Vibrant or Earthy color tones and wait to be surprised!
Nawal was born and raised in Marrakech. Her commitment to culture, quality, and community make her a perfect Curated World designer.]]>
For those who aren’t lucky enough to talk technique with a local chef or join one of the many excellent cooking classes, there are three new cookbooks that provide not only authentic recipes, but also photographs, stories, and the history of the food and culture of Morocco.
Mourad: New Moroccan by Mourad Lahlou is a beautifully photographed full-color cookbook with personal stories from the chef’s childhood in Doukkala, notes from Lahlou about his essentials of Moroccan cooking, as well as classic and updated recipes – all written in the chef’s distinctive voice. I loved this book for the personal connection Chef Lahlou makes between his upbringing and the food he cooks, as well as the lessons he provides on the essential ingredients and the cultural significance of Moroccan cooking. The recipes he shares range from easy preserved lemons to a spice-rubbed eight-pound rib roast that could feed a family. This cookbook is required reading for any fan of Chef Lahlou’s award-winning San Fransisco restaurant, Aziza, which was the first Moroccan restaurant to receive a Michelin Star, but it is also worthy of coffee table status thanks to the gorgeous photography, courtesy of Deborah Jones, whose sparse styling and saturated color perfectly capture the magic of the culture.
Paula Wolfert’s The Food of Morocco is another beautiful full-color cookbook with stunning photography. Paging through the sections – separated, roughly, by course – images that recall a walk through the spice market or a drive along the fields of argan trees are accompanied by recipes offering variations on the salads, tagines, and soups, among other classic Moroccan dishes. Where Mourad is part personal narrative, part cooking lesson and part cookbook, Chef Wolfert keeps us focused more firmly upon the recipes of this country, whose cuisine she clearly adores and reveres. The images are equally reverential, thanks to Quentin Bacon’s ability to capture the essence of a place – and a dish – so exquisitely.
Le Riad Monceau: A Palace of Moroccan Gastronomy, also combines full-color photography with culture and recipes. With text in both French and English, Le Riad Monceau takes the reader on a virtual tour of the history and architecture of the riad, tells the story of its renown restaurant, offers recipes from their highly regarded chef and provides an exclusive guide to Moroccan wine. Owned by the French artist Isabelle Aubrey and her husband Ludovic Antoine, who also took the photographs for the book, Le Riad Monceau is a tribute to its namesake, a temple of classic Moroccan hospitality.]]>
Jump ahead to 2011. I am trying to find a ‘fixer’ in Marrakech, a person who can facilitate meeting all the needs of A Curated World. A woman named Stef was recommended several times. She “owns a shop called Kif Kif.” I put two and two together and knew I had found our ‘fixer’.
Stef was born in 1972 in France and she has lived in Marrakech for the past eight years. Her husband, Philippe, oversees their classic courtyard hotel known as a riad, Riad Magellan. Guidebooks consistently site Riad Magellan for its “relaxed swagger” and peaceful ethnic-elegant surroundings.
It was Stef’s decorating ventures, and then seeing how much the hotel guests delighted in her use of unusual materials and bright colors, that set the Kif Kif collection in motion!
Stef opened her first boutique in the Medina of Marrakech at Bab Laksour, my most favorite district within the old walled city. Stef embraced the cultural exchange that came with creating the line of jewelry, handbags, vintage finds and home accessories.
Stef developed her ‘voice’ behind the brand and formed bonds and reliance on the local artisans. She acquired a better understanding of Moroccan crafts and she brought to the artisans an awareness of aesthetics and Western demands, her own heritage. This is a collaboration and partnership we explored through interviews with many designers.
Stef has an ability to create whimsical designs while avoiding a clique or kitsch style. This is not an easy line to walk. The collection sold through A Curated World highlights Stef’s immense talent.
Both Stef and Philippe walk the cobblestone and dirt alleyways of the medina quickly and with expert navigation, nodding a quiet hello, a glance back and a wave, a handshake and quick catch-up. For expats, they seem in harmonious step with their adopted city.
SHOP KIFKIF – Find KifKif accessories here (necklaces and bags)! For KifKif home goods (pillows and poufs and storage) click here. Lovely and traditional tea glasses and plates click here.]]>
The square was dotted with groups of mostly men – sitting around a carpet chatting with one another, playing drums or charming snakes with a wooden clarinet-like instrument called a pungi. While I had assumed that these shows were mainly for the tourists, few were there that early, and yet the men continued on, weaving a tapestry of sound as I zig-zagged across the square, taking it all in, not pausing long enough at any of the shows to be asked for money as payment. It appeared as if this Marrakech was quietly going about its business, and despite my obvious outsider status – a woman alone, in jeans, wild curls and a pink scarf – I was free to observe or take part as I wished.
I had experienced a different Marrakech in the very same place, however, the previous evening as one of three women who had decided to visit the food stalls for dinner. Every night in Jemaa el Fnaa dedicated teams erect and disassemble dozens of tented stalls offering nearly every aspect of Moroccan food, from snails to goat brains, all cooked on the spot for just a few dirham. The calm of the square in the morning was a stark contrast to when the three of us were standing behind the filled stools at stall fourteen, jockeying for position. They had the best fried seafood and silken cumin-spiced eggplant we were told, and were worth the wait. The three of us were in jeans or long skirts, hair uncovered and clutching our purses to our chest, while men pushed us from behind and the sides, all aiming for the next open stool. After ten minutes, a twenty-something student from Fez offered up his seat and struck up a conversation in excellent English – it was clear we were westerners in a roiling sea of Muslim men. Soon, with help from our new friend, we had three adjacent stools and had placed three orders of mixed seafood.
Stall fourteen was, as reported, delicious. The fish was sweet and fresh and crispy, the smooth spice of the eggplant and traditional fresh tomato and green pepper salad a worthy complement. But the three of us agreed: we would not be getting our dinner at the food stalls every night. This most talked about of experiences in Marrakech represents one version of Morocco that a western visitor can experience. There is the frenetic energy – as we walked through in search of our stall we were accosted by workers who would aggressively block our path or tug our arms to bully us into giving them business. It was exciting, yes, but also frightening at times, in the ways that Moroccans’ perception of personal space differed from our western one. It was not unlike the trip from the airport to the riad at which I was staying – my mini-van taxi shared the road at sometimes dizzying speeds with extended families on motorbikes, the occasional mule-drawn wagon and plenty of small hatchbacks all vying to merge around one of the city’s many roundabouts.
But that morning, the food stalls were just a memory, and I circled back and turned down a narrow pedestrian street at the far corner of Jemaa el Fna, heading to a cooking class, passing women stirring soup pots in the open window of a narrow shop – likely harira, a tomato and lentil soup – to be offered in a few hours for lunch for the shopkeepers. Again, I was ignored as Moroccans went about their day.
A few hundred yards away from the square down a shadowed walkway, I pushed open the heavy wooden door of Le Riad Monceau, and experienced yet another Marrakech – the one that caters to foreign travelers with beautifully appointed rooms, excellent food and wine, and stress-free activities to help while away the day between shopping and eating. I spent the rest of my pleasant morning chopping vegetables and then enjoyed a leisurely lunch in the December sun in the riad’s rooftop dining area. Once inside the beautiful riad, I spent most of my time chatting with Europeans – in English – with the Moroccan staff offering their services whenever they sensed a lull.
In my time in the city, I experienced this same high-end European luxury while sipping expensive cocktails overlooking world-renown gardens at La Mamounia or shopping for handbags and jewelry in Lalla’s second floor shop in Geulitz, a hip, upscale neighborhood just outside of the walled medina. This is the Marrakech that continues to bring countless vacationers from Europe, eager to soak up the desert sun and indulge in the generous hospitality of the Moroccan people, coupled with luxurious, but exotic amenities.
But perhaps my favorite version of Marrakech was the one apparent in the everyday interactions. Like the hour spent chatting with a shopkeeper who I met the following day while shopping for jewelry deep in the medina. Within a minute of meeting, he had volunteered his belief that the politics that often kept our parts of the world at odds were not necessarily his beliefs. Perhaps this was at first a sales pitch, but then while I browsed his beautiful selection of antique Berber necklaces and Taureg rings, he asked a local boy to bring us mint tea and cookies. And he told me how he believed that both Americans and Moroccans were at their cores generous, open-minded people. He sought to forge a bond, even after it became clear that I wouldn’t be purchasing anything that day.
After meeting the shopkeeper I ended up back in Jemaa el Fna, which I tended to walk through at least three times a day, sometimes just to get my bearings among the winding alleys of the souk. It was late afternoon and the stalls were being erected for the evening among the crowds that populated the square; I could feel the energy changing from the daytime meandering of tourists and locals to the nightly hustle for customers among the stalls. I purchased a cup of freshly squeezed orange juice from one of the vendors who I had seen there no matter the time of day. And instead of turning back towards my riad, I took in that moment near sundown where Jemaa el Fna reflected the many versions of Marrakech that I experienced in my time there – full of both tourists and locals, people both passing through and there to work or play, men and women from around the world and around the corner who all helped define the city as a crossroads of culture, with something for everyone.]]>
For a luxurious stay overlooking stunning gardens and with some of the best western-style accommodations in Marrakech, book your stay at La Mamounia. Pamper yourself with a traditional hammam experience at the on-site hammam, winner of the 2011 Conde Nast Best Hotel Spa in the World award. And the selection of international and Moroccan wines is the perfect complement to your meal at one of the three on-site restaurants, with the Moroccan restaurant receiving rave reviews.
If you want a cozy, but chic riad in the medina, stay at Dar Hanane. Located in one of the oldest neighbourhoods of the Marrakech medina, guests are constantly amazed by the traditional way of life surrounding the riad – women walking to the local bread oven where the daily bread is baked, donkeys transporting cartload of goods through the medina, and children running freely through the derb. With one of the highest terraces in the medina, the views (day or night) of the magical Marrakech medina are absolutely spectacular.
If you want luxury combined with unbeatable views, stay at Dar Les Cigognes. Head up to the rooftop terrace and watch the storks fly overhead, and admire the ramparts of the Royal Palace. The luxurious rooms, authentically decorated with the finest examples of Moroccan craftsmanship, are complete with the comforts guests expect from a boutique hotel.
If supporting ethical tourism is important, stay at Riad Magellan, a riad dedicated to assisting the needs of children in a local hospital. Tastefully decorated rooms blended with warm hospitality provide an oasis in the Marrakech medina.
If you enjoy eclectic decor, a home filled with objects acquired from trips around the world, creating a chic museum-like atmosphere, Riad Camilia is the ideal riad. Hidden behind the main entrance, guests step into a riad filled with secret corners, courtyards and private galleries, adding to the enchanting ambiance throughout. The decor is authentic and extends from the rooms to the common areas and the wonderful on-site dining room.
For a stay in a riad steeped in history in the former Jewish quarter known as Mellah, Riad Azoulay is the place to be. Formerly the home of a wealthy landlord, this riad is now an elegant guesthouse respecting traditional architectural styles. For a majestic stay, book a stay in the Sultane suite.
For the active and cultured traveller, book your stay Riad El Fenn. A regular host of cultural events including the Marrakech Biennele and TedX Marrakesh, El Fenn is filled with artwork at every turn. For the more active guests, head up to the rooftop terrace where a one-hole golf course faces the landmark Koutoubia mosque. Or enjoy a dip in one of the plunge pools. Then when it’s time to relax, the bohemian-chic rooms are the perfect retreat from the souks as are the cozy nooks throughout the riad.
For honeymooners or couples looking a chic and stylish romantic getaway, book your stay at Riad Adore. Whether up on the terrace, in the gallery overlooking the central courtyard or relaxing by the plunge pool in the central courtyard, a feeling of romance is all around. Dinner on the rooftop terrace, next to the fireplace, as the call to prayer sounds out is just one of the comforts provided to guest. Yet step out the door, and you’re just minutes from some of the finest antique shops in Marrakech.]]>